Issue 1 (62)

COOKBOOKS AS A SOURCE OF THE GASTRONOMIC CULTURE RECONSTRUCTION
Year 2019 Number 1(62)
Pages 113-120 Type scientific article
UDC 94(470) BBK 63.3(2)53
Authors Yakhno Olga N.
Topic RUSSIAN PROVINCE: EVERYDAY LIFE HISTORY
Summary Over the last decade the topic of food, cuisine and gastronomy has become not only relevant, but also fashionable. That is why considering cookbooks as a source of the reconstruction of certain aspects of everyday life and even mental constructions seems quite justified. The article provides a comparative analysis of the content of such books published in the last third of the 19th — early 20th centuries and in the years of the pre-war “Stalinˮ Five-Year Plan. This allows us to trace the evolution of the gastronomic culture and important changes in home life that took place during the fundamental transformations of Russian society. The focus is on the recommended approaches to the organization of domestic nutrition and its ration, sets of dishes and recipes, cooking technologies, table setting, as well as the etiquette rules, popularized in cookbooks. An attempt is made to correlate their content with social realities. It is emphasized that these books gave some “correct examplesˮ that modern city housewives should have been guided by. In this way they performed not only educational, but also ideological functions. Such an approach was especially characteristic of “The book of tasty and healthy foodˮ, which was a kind of “culinary Bibleˮ of the Soviet era.
Keywords gastronomic culture, culinary art, cooking technologies, cookbooks
References

Fitzpatrick S. Povsednevnyy stalinizm. Sotsial’naya istoriya Sovetskoy Rossii v 30-ye gody: gorod [Everyday Stalinism. Social history of Soviet Russia in the 1930s: the city]. Moscow: Rossiyskaya politicheskaya entsiklopediya, Fond Pervogo Prezidenta Rossii B. N. El’tsina Publ., 2001, 336 p. (in Russ.).

Glushchenko I. V. Obshchepit. Mikoyan i sovetskaya kukhnya [Public catering. Mikoyan and Soviet cuisine]. Moscow: Vysshaya shkola ekonomiki (Gosudarstvennyy universitet) Publ., 2010, 240 p. (in Russ.).

Kapkan M. V., Likhacheva L. [Gastronomic culture: concept, functions. Factors of formation]. Izvestiya Ural’skogo gosudarstvennogo universiteta. Seriya 2. Gumanitarnyye nauki [Izvestia. Ural State University Journal. Series 2. Humanities and Arts], 2008, vol. 55, no. 15, pp. 34–43. (in Russ.).

Kappati A., Montanari M. Ital’yanskaya kukhnya: istoriya odnoy kul’tury [Italian cuisine: a cultural history]. Moscow: Novoye literaturnoye obozreniye Publ., 2006, 476 p. (in Russ.).

Kondratyeva T. Kormit’ i pravit’. O vlasty v Rossii XVI–XX vv. [To feed and reign: on the power in the 16th–20th centuries Russia]. Moscow: ROSSPEN Publ., 2006, 208 p. (in Russ.).

Nazarova O. Puteshestvie na kraii tarelki [Traveling to the edge of the plate]. Moscow: Novoye literaturnoye obozreniye Publ., 2009, 160 p. (in Russ.).

Norman J. Francuzskaya kukhnya pyati prezidentov [French cuisine of five presidents]. Moscow: Nezavisimaya gazeta Publ., 2002, 360 p. (in Russ.).

Osokina E. A. Za fasadom “stalinskogo izobiliya”: Raspredeleniye i rynok v snabzhenii naseleniya v gody industrializatsii. 1927–1941 [Behind the facade of the “Stalinist abundance”: Distribution and market in supply of the population during the years of industrialization. 1927–1941]. Moscow: Rossiyskaya politicheskaya entsiklopediya Publ., 2008, 384 p. (in Russ.).

Pokhlebkin V. Iz istorii russkoi kulinarnoi kultury [From the history of Russian culinary culture]. Moscow: Tzentrpoligraf Publ., 2005, 464 p. (in Russ.).

Pokhlebkin V. Kukhnya veka [Cuisine of the century]. Moscow: Itogi Veka. Polifakt Publ., 2000, 616 p. (in Russ.).

Revel J.-F. Kukhnya I kultura: Literaturnaya istoriya gastronomicheskikh vkusov ot Antichnosti do nashikh dnei [Cuisine and Culture: Literary history of culinary sensibility from Antiquity to today]. Ekaterinburg: U-Faktoriya Publ., 2004, 336 p. (in Russ.).

Romanov P. V. Zastolnaya istoriya gosudarstva Rossiiskogo [Dining history of the Russian state]. Moscow: Tsentrpoligraf, MiM-Del’ta Publ., 2002, 608 p. (in Russ.).

Wallerstein I. Konec znakomogo mira. Sociologiya XXI veka [The end of the world as we know it: social science for the twenty-first century]. Moscow: Logos Publ., 2005, 368 p. (in Russ.).

 
Download in PDF